Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

[arobg]

I post this hoping that it helps someone dial in their settings.

The attached photo shows how green esun petg prints on my Flashforge Creator Pro with Microswiss all-metal 0.6 nozzle kit. The object is http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:337957

The left most tower shows print speeds of 2, 4 , 8, 12, 16, 24, 32, 36, 40 and 48 mm/s at 255 C. The speeds changed every 10 mm in height.

The other towers show extruder temperatures of 265, 260, 255, 250, 245, 240, 235, 230, and 225 C every 10 mm and each tower is labeled with its mm/as speed. The right most tower speed is 51.2 mm/s.

[calinb]

I post this hoping that it helps someone dial in their settings.

Great stuff. Thanks! Did you run a fan?

[zemlin]

For those who have used PLA for support material on PETG prints, can you use a ZERO gap between dense support and the PETG, and does that give a relatively clean underbelly to the PETG supported build? I don't have a dual extruder so I can't test.

[Jules]

For those who have used PLA for support material on PETG prints, can you use a ZERO gap between dense support and the PETG, and does that give a relatively clean underbelly to the PETG supported build? I don't have a dual extruder so I can't test.

Yes and yes. I usually set a slight side wall gap (about 0.2 mm) but zero top and bottom gap, with dense support layers. They peel right off, and the support you get from PLA is so much better than PVA. Bottom sides of the PETG print look as good as you can get with an unsupported bottom layer.

[psd]

thanks for the great advice and settings Jules!
I just printed my first few prints in PETG with your settings, wonderful!

so far so good. using eSun PETG blue

[Jules]

Super! (Those look great!)

[r0n_dL]

Thanks for the tips! Has helped a lot. Now in the process of tweaking.

Any particular reason why you disable this?

Avoid crossing outline for travel movements: unchecked - no

From the description on how it can be used it may be beneficial for PETG.

Thoughts?


Related Blurd from Simplify3D help site:

The software is smart enough that it can automatically adjust the travel path to make sure that nozzle has a very short distance to travel over an open space. In fact, in many cases, the software may be able to find a travel path that avoids crossing an open space all together! This means that there is no possibility to create a string, because the nozzle will always be on top of the solid plastic and will never travel outside the part. To use this feature, click on the Advanced tab and enable the “Avoid crossing outline for travel movement” option.

[Jules]

It's for ooze control, and if you're single nozzle printing it's not usually needed. It adds a lot of time to the print if the nozzle has to keep going the long way around.

That isn't always possible if you are printing with a dual extruder. (The inactive nozzle always drools a little.) So I will sometimes use it when dual printing something complex that needs a good surface finish.

[petej]

The Zebra people firmly suggest that you should not exceed 80°C bed temperature with Zebra Skin. I had been printing PETG on a Zebra Plate with a bed setting of 87°, as recommended in this thread, but I backed the temperature down when I changed the bed to insta's MIC6 plate, covered with Zebra Skin. After some slipping & sliding I boosted bed temp back to 87° and that worked perfectly: the Zebra skin did not catch fire, smoke, blister, smell or exhibit any thermal distress. The print stayed in place and popped off easily when the bed cooled.

So Jules is right. I don't know why Zebra recommends a lower temperature.

[psd]

I am printing PETG on a PEI plate, and many times it's very very difficult to get my print off the plate.
I actually gauged the PEI film today!
Any advice?
Lower the heat of the build plate? Other setting adjustments?
Thanks.