Installed a new 30mm nozzle and its a mess!

[wisdomknight]

You would remove the fans (there are just a couple of screws that hold that whole assembly on) and let them dangle - don't have to unplug, then shine a flashlight in at the teeth on the gear.

If they are clogged, you would remove the drive to clean them with a stiff wire brush.

ok I will try

[Jules]

Just take a look at it, that's easy.....you probably don't have clogged teeth because you were able to extrude when there wasn't a nozzle on it.

You might just need to tighten the Filament Drive screw a hair.

[wisdomknight]

Extruding with the new nozzle, but Im back to where I started same quality with the old nozzle but now Im out $150 from buying parts I didnt need.
Not too happy with my $2,000 printer.

[insta]

Come on man, you gotta post pictures. You have to post the steps you've tried. You have to give us detailed explanations of what you're seeing.

It's this "didnt work" that's not helping us help you. Is the extruder clunking? Is the filament stripping out? What are your temperatures? What is the output look like? Where are the problems on your print you're trying to get rid of?

[Rich]

Going back to the first line of the first post...if plastic is leaking out of the TOP of the nozzle, you're probably hosed. Happened to me and I was not happy that I hadn't fully seated the nozzle after a rebuild (necessitated from switching plastics and not fully purging the hot end...ABS to PLA)

My ultimate solution was to have a separate hot end for each type of plastic. I'd invested a pile of $$ into the machine, so to go a little bit farther and invest in separate hot ends was a no-brainer.

Side Note: Jules, Excellent effort!! Same for everyone else that tried to help. I'm sure that plenty of regulars & lurkers benefited from your inputs.

Rich

[wisdomknight]

You guys really tried to help and I appreciate it.
Im just at the point that Im just happy its working now and Im going to just except the quality that I have now the way it is.
I tried so many settings over the months so many different models that I dont know where to begin giving anyone any numbers.

I just wish it worked like it did when I first started with the machine the quality was amazing.

[wisdomknight]

Come on man, you gotta post pictures. You have to post the steps you've tried. You have to give us detailed explanations of what you're seeing.

It's this "didnt work" that's not helping us help you. Is the extruder clunking? Is the filament stripping out? What are your temperatures? What is the output look like? Where are the problems on your print you're trying to get rid of?

Here's the first post I made regarding everything.
Pics included

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4370

[Jules]

Extruding with the new nozzle, but Im back to where I started same quality with the old nozzle but now Im out $150 from buying parts I didnt need.
Not too happy with my $2,000 printer.

Better to have it and not need it, than need it desperately and not have it.

I keep 7 spare hotends, a half dozen nozzles, a bunch of boros with PEI, and a couple zebras. (One of these days, I probably need to sell a few of those, I probably don't need that many. Just no time to mess with packaging it up and shipping it.)

It usually takes a few days of printing to break in a new nozzle. In addition, you might not have the Starting Height set exactly right, and adjusting that can make a BIG difference in how the machine extrudes. Give it a few days and if you are still getting wavy lines, reduce the gap by 0.02 mm at a time until it quits.

Z-Adjust Application viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3666

If you're not doing it, you need to dial in your settings for each spool of filament. You can't assume that Hatchbox PLA prints like MakerGear PLA or eSun Wood filament. They all require fine tuning of the settings in order to get good consistent prints. (All the settings: extrusion speed, retraction, temperature, fan, etc.) The default settings tend to run high for some of these filaments.

Make sure you use eSun cleaning filament if you switch to any different kind of filament, and run a dust filter. All the guys gave excellent advice earlier - it keeps us from having to go through this hassle.
(If you don't, I promise you'll be doing this again.)

But you CAN fine tune those results with some experimentation.

[Jules]

Side Note: Jules, Excellent effort!! Same for everyone else that tried to help. I'm sure that plenty of regulars & lurkers benefited from your inputs.

Rich

Thanks! But there are still things to try....(I'm not done yet.) And I am hoping that other lurkers are reading this. It's not hard at all to take the parts off and check for easily fixed problems.

For the lurkers: Most of time, there are multiple factors that contribute to a problem. You eliminate the most likely (in this case the clogged barrel or nozzle) then you proceed to the next most likely culprit, which in this case, might be the gap. He wasn't getting any extrusion at all, or we would have started with the gap first, because it's the easiest thing to fix.

But there are really only a handful of things that can cause problems - you run through a few things and you'll find the problem and get it going again. It only takes a long time when you have to explain it the first time.

[wisdomknight]

Extruding with the new nozzle, but Im back to where I started same quality with the old nozzle but now Im out $150 from buying parts I didnt need.
Not too happy with my $2,000 printer.

Better to have it and not need it, than need it desperately and not have it.

I keep 7 spare hotends, a half dozen nozzles, a bunch of boros with PEI, and a couple zebras. (One of these days, I probably need to sell a few of those, I probably don't need that many. Just no time to mess with packaging it up and shipping it.)

It usually takes a few days of printing to break in a new nozzle. In addition, you might not have the Starting Height set exactly right, and adjusting that can make a BIG difference in how the machine extrudes. Give it a few days and if you are still getting wavy lines, reduce the gap by 0.02 mm at a time until it quits.

Z-Adjust Application viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3666

If you're not doing it, you need to dial in your settings for each spool of filament. You can't assume that Hatchbox PLA prints like MakerGear PLA or eSun Wood filament. They all require fine tuning of the settings in order to get good consistent prints. (All the settings: extrusion speed, retraction, temperature, fan, etc.) The default settings tend to run high for some of these filaments.

Make sure you use eSun cleaning filament if you switch to any different kind of filament, and run a dust filter. All the guys gave excellent advice earlier - it keeps us from having to go through this hassle.
(If you don't, I promise you'll be doing this again.)

But you CAN fine tune those results with some experimentation.

Yeah its good to have these parts when I do need them, no doubt.
I already ordered some eSun cleaning filament, will get it next week.

I learned alot from you guys, fantastic community here!

The only other thing that tech support told me differently than here in the forums that it could be my G-Code.
Now thats something that I really dont even want to get into
Im just an artist and all this tech stuff is frying my brain!