esun petg

[jimc]

with s3d v3.0 there is no need to use the high infill % anymore. that was only to compensate for s3d only printing infill every other layer. we were bumping that up to get a more solid infill. now if you change to a pattern that prints every layer or even the fast honeycomb you dont need to bump that up. just keep it at 100%. if your using hairspray on the bed then 80c is plenty fine for the bed temp. no need to crank that way up either. if your filament diameter is set correctly then your multiplier should be in the neighborhood of 96 +- 4-5. get the first layer to go down exactly like all the others. dont squish it down with a tight bed gap or print to far away. each strand should be equal to the extrusion width setting. that should make the edges of each strand just touch each other with no space between. its a pretty precise setting and it needs to be right on. if its not it will collect on the nozzle. if everything is in tune and the bed is sticky it should print really clean.

[jsc]

Any suggested profile settings should be taken as a starting point for your own tweaks. There is too much variation in setups, filaments, and models for any one profile to work for everyone all the time. Extrusion multiplier, especially, needs to be calculated for your machine and your filament. Rob's setup has drifted pretty far from stock, so what works for him won't necessarily work for you.

When calibrating, keep the first layer at 100% and use the g-code z offset to get your calibration cube to come out the right height. I typically go for exactly 2.0 mm, but you can shoot for slightly less to ensure good first layer adhesion if you like.

I find I can't get much beyond 130% on the infill extrusion multiplier before I get jams. I keep it at a conservative 120%. Or, you can use one of the new S3D infill patterns that print every layer and go with 100%, but that is generally slower than rectilinear.

Skirts: what you're doing is fine, just adjust things until it's enough. I hate brims, but sometimes they're necessary.

[LazMech]

with s3d v3.0 there is no need to use the high infill % anymore. that was only to compensate for s3d only printing infill every other layer.

Oh ok, it makes sense why he had it set to 200% since the process file was made before s3d v3.

When calibrating, keep the first layer at 100% and use the g-code z offset to get your calibration cube to come out the right height.

Yea, that sounds like the way to go.

I find I can't get much beyond 130% on the infill extrusion multiplier before I get jams.

Is there a need to go beyond 100% anymore if you're printing infill every layer? I can understand small adjustments just to correct for things like filament variation, non-optimal hotend temp and other things like that which may be impossible to get perfect.

[jimc]

for the last question, not really. only reason to bump that up is to save some print time really but you can only extrude so fast out that little nozzle. too fast and you just get so much back pressure you either strip out the filament or get a jam. it really depends on your print speed. at 3600mm/min i dont go over 120% as jin said. i also only do that on rectilinear infill which i still use here and there.

[LazMech]

My print speed is 3200mm/min. I am in no rush for prints to complete; more interested in print quality and learning since I don't print that often at the moment. By the way I set the bed temp to 100c because printing straight on the glass, no hairspray, gluestick, kapton, blue tape, etc. At 90c it was sticking well but I could remove it fairly easily while the bed was still hot; at 100c it seems to adhere better. Although I should go get some hairspray and some gluesticks just to have around because i'm guessing i'll regret not using hairspray/gluestick on a larger print.

On another topic, I got 5 rolls of esun PETG in the last week and I noticed that 3 out of 5 of them was very textured. I think it was Tim that got a roll like that but no other mentions since then. I haven't opened the 3 textured ones yet (solid black, solid white and translucent blue) to measure the filament diameter. They don't look overly bumpy/deformed, just very textured. Anyone have the same thing happen? If so any problems with it or is it fairly normal?

[jimc]

nope the textured surface is normal. other than a couple rolls in i think the first batch months ago, all my rolls are textured. even my sample i got a maker faire last sept has the same texture. many companies put a texture on to decrease friction through a bowden or feed tube.

[Jules]

Yep! My opaque PETG is textured. The translucent is smooth.

[LazMech]

Simplify3D "Avoid Crossing Outline" and PETG; anyone use that feature? My PETG prints are looking good, however I do get very thin strings (essentially inconsequential from a usability standpoint) where the nozzle crosses the outline. Anyone use "avoid crossing outline" to get rid of the thin strings? Is it as effective as it theoretically should be?

Clear PETG print lots of strings

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NoAvoidCrossing.jpg

Avoid crossing not checkmarked

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AvoidCrossing10.jpg

Avoid crossing factor of 10

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AvoidCrossing100.jpg

Avoid crossing factor of 100

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[jimc]

i have not tried that feature yet. petg will always have those micro fine hairs. just because its so sticky. when your part is done printing you can make a quick pass over it with a heat gun or the flame from a lighter. makes the hairs disappear.

[grifftech]

The problem I run into with all those hairs is the hot end slowly picks them up and over time it ends up screwing up the print