Solid thin walls, how please?

[rgproduct.com]

Hello from England.

I now finally have 2 makergear M2s and have one fired up.

Terrific results thus far. I have an issue I think is code related and would like a fix please (or nozzle diameter in relation to model).

I like to print keyrings and stuff for the young cousins so will often spell there names in 1"/25mm high letters approx 3mm thick on the bed.

They are fully modelled as solids and all seems fine. However on printing there are numerous air gaps inside the letters outlines and they look scrappy because of this.

This also relates to wanting to print thin solid walls, say 2 to 3mm thick and tall for some architectural buildings.

The simple question is, how do i print nice dense solid thin outline shapes?

I have tried 100% infill and combine outlines without useful results...I look forward to hearing from you.

[Capt. John]

What software are you using?

S3D is "what you see, is what you get" in preview mode.

Has does this model look preview?

Suspect .stl file needs more work.

[rgproduct.com]

Hi, am using S3D and I also use Repetier with slic3r.

I thought it was to do with nozzle output width in relation to model profile?

[jsc]

For your object, I would try one perimeter and 100% infill.

[ednisley]

nozzle output width in relation to model profile

It looks like the settings call for two perimeter threads. If those threads are 0.5 mm wide, then the thinnest solid wall will have four threads and be exactly 4 * 0.5 mm = 2.0 mm wide. If your model has a 2.25 mm wall, then there must be a 0.25 mm gap down the middle: the printer cannot produce a 0.25 mm thread.

If you change the settings to use one perimeter thread, then a 2.25 mm wall will have 1.25 mm between the threads and that may be enough to allow solid infill. However, those letter have tapering wall and I think you'll find that the infill will still leave gaps. In any event, it'll be better than what you see now and may be good enough for your purposes.

Think of trying to draw the letters with a fat marker: trace around the outside, then try to fill the inside with lines that do not overlap and always have semicircular ends. Wherever the perimeters taper together to "squeeze out" an infill line, there will be a gap.

It's the nature of the process. You must adapt your model to suit the printer's capabilities, keeping in mind that it's producing the finished product from strands of semi-solid plastic, not squirting amorphous goo that can fill the voids.

[rgproduct.com]

Thanks all, JSC, you Sir are a brick. worked a treat.

Have reversed my lettering to give smooth side on face, running tests now...