Build plate temperature uniformity and copper tape

[bignordique]

While I don't have one of these http://www.flir.com/life/ yet (does Santa read this group?)... its pretty clear that M2 build platform temperature uniformity could use improvement.

I've seen some articles about improved build platform heaters http://softsolder.com/2013/09/05/improv ... rst-light/, this modification is a bit ambitious for me.

It seems like a quick and dirty improvement would be to apply a layer of this https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11081 to the bottom side of the glass. We all know that copper is a terrific heat conductor. Even a fairly thin layer can make a difference.

So the question is, has anybody tried this?

bignordique

[Jules]

Haven't tried the copper tape. But i really like the Zebra Plate. The plate has two layers of embedded copper, and spreads the heat very well to all the edges. Helps the bed to heat up to temp a lot quicker too.

i just tried the PEI surface as well, and I was surprised at how well it distributed the heat around the bed. Much better than Kapton or bare glass. Both of those did have some spots around the edges that didn't heat up as much.

So either of those works pretty well. Copper tape might do the same.

[bignordique]

Thanks Jules, didn't know about the Zebra plate.

Strangely, I can't find anything on their website about the apparently embedded copper??

I've got my current blue tape on glass largely dialed in... in particular I like the matte finish the blue tape leaves on the bottom. Does the Zerbra plate leave a similar finish?

If the Zebra plate improves build platform temperature uniformity and gets me out of the blue tape business, its probably worth it.

I'm currently mostly printing PETg. Any reports on Zebra plate and PETg?

bignordique

[jimc]

2 years ago i went to the aluminum mic6 plate for that very reason. temp difference from center to edge of the glass was 20-25 deg. with the aluminum i now have a 2-3 deg difference.

[Jules]

Thanks Jules, didn't know about the Zebra plate.

Strangely, I can't find anything on their website about the apparently embedded copper??

I've got my current blue tape on glass largely dialed in... in particular I like the matte finish the blue tape leaves on the bottom. Does the Zerbra plate leave a similar finish?

If the Zebra plate improves build platform temperature uniformity and gets me out of the blue tape business, its probably worth it.

I'm currently mostly printing PETg. Any reports on Zebra plate and PETg?

bignordique

With the Zebra, you don't have to use any tape or glue at all - matter of fact, it replaces your glass. (It's actually thicker than the glass.) It leaves a matte finish, not glossy in any way. And it does a fantastic job with PETG and PLA. (The only issue it has is with taller ABS prints, which might bend it a little because it warps so badly and grips so tightly.)

I love it because it's the only plate I've tried that you can actually flex, just a tiny bit, to break the seal and release your print after it cools.

Oh yeah, and it might not tell you up front, but there are two copper layers in the plate, one on each side. You can see them when you look at the edge.

There was a thread started on it here:

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2482

If you read all the way through, i posted some pics of it handling some tall PETG prints. Absolutely no warping with either PLA or PETG - it doesn't let go until it cools.

[Jules]

2 years ago i went to the aluminum mic6 plate for that very reason. temp difference from center to edge of the glass was 20-25 deg. with the aluminum i now have a 2-3 deg difference.

Do you have any trouble getting the prints off after jim? (Do they have to be pried off?)

[jimc]

no i never have trouble getting them off once the plate is cool. they dont usually pop off by themselves but just a little razor blade scraper on the corner of the print and they pop free. petg i can usually just grab the part with my hand or fingers and they pull right off. bond also depends on the hairspray i use as well. GF#5 for high bond, aquanet for a medium bond. i like the aluminum because its flat. i mean extremely flat and it stays that way. i have tried plates before and even the glass and neither is flat enough.

[Jules]

no i never have trouble getting them off once the plate is cool. they dont usually pop off by themselves but just a little razor blade scraper on the corner of the print and they pop free. petg i can usually just grab the part with my hand or fingers and they pull right off. bond also depends on the hairspray i use as well. GF#5 for high bond, aquanet for a medium bond. i like the aluminum because its flat. i mean extremely flat and it stays that way. i have tried plates before and even the glass and neither is flat enough.

Yeah, one of my glass plates has a bit of a low spot in it. (Not bad enough to throw off larger prints, just if i happen to place a small one right on top of the low spot.) But i'll bet the aluminum is best for getting the heat spread around everywhere.

[jsc]

Jim helped me get set up with a plate, and it has been fantastic. I tried your previous love, Jules, the Kapton sheets, and they worked well but it was too easy to damage it accidentally. Straight plate with glue, sticks great and is indestructible. Razor blade or chisel, not too much pressure, and anything comes right off. Even when warm, if small enough. And you can really go after it without worrying about the surface if it comes to that.

[Jules]

Jim helped me get set up with a plate, and it has been fantastic. I tried your previous love, Jules, the Kapton sheets, and they worked well but it was too easy to damage it accidentally. Straight plate with glue, sticks great and is indestructible. Razor blade or chisel, not too much pressure, and anything comes right off. Even when warm, if small enough. And you can really go after it without worrying about the surface if it comes to that.

Chuckle! Yeah, I have had a rather fickle love affair different plate treatments. Totally abandoned the Kapton in favor of the Zebra - like you said, they can be nicked too easily with a slip of the knife, and I was getting really tired of the hairspray. (I never could get the gluestick to work - couldn't ever get it applied evenly enough.) And now I'm looking into PEI, which seems to be working very well indeed.

I think it's great that there are so many options to choose from though....I'd like to be able to switch between the methods based on the filament i need to print, or whether it has a large surface area that might need to be flexed off.