nozzle drawing?

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jferguson
Posts: 123
Joined: Mon Mar 30, 2015 7:26 pm

nozzle drawing?

Post by jferguson » Tue Jun 26, 2018 12:09 am

I'm warming up to make a mandrel to hold clogged nozzles on my lathe the better to drill out burnt plastic. It would be wonderful (and save me a bunch of time) if a drawing of the nozzle including bore and thread could be shared here. Please???

airscapes
Posts: 132
Joined: Wed Jan 31, 2018 11:36 pm

Re: nozzle drawing?

Post by airscapes » Tue Jun 26, 2018 1:58 am

thread is a 1/4 standard course thread.

jferguson
Posts: 123
Joined: Mon Mar 30, 2015 7:26 pm

Re: nozzle drawing?

Post by jferguson » Tue Jun 26, 2018 3:33 am

1/4-20?

airscapes
Posts: 132
Joined: Wed Jan 31, 2018 11:36 pm

Re: nozzle drawing?

Post by airscapes » Tue Jun 26, 2018 4:20 am

yes, I have a bolt with the head cut off and a nut on the thread as a lock nut. I thread a new nozzle on, tighten the lock nut and place the bolt in a drill press. Then using 1500, 2000, 2500 an 3000 grit wet I polish the nozzle. Works real nice after that, nothing sticks to it, just wipe it off after each print.

jferguson
Posts: 123
Joined: Mon Mar 30, 2015 7:26 pm

Re: nozzle drawing?

Post by jferguson » Tue Jun 26, 2018 1:25 pm

Airscapes, that's a pretty good idea. I've gone to printing only PETG, mostly because I think I'll get better thermal resistance - not melt down in hot cars etc. This has increased the frequency of baked-in blockages in the nozzle. I tried frying the stuff out with a propane torch which did get a lot of stuff out of the nozzle I tried first, but not enough. I have a reflow oven. I might try that, but in the end, it looks like there's ash left in the .35mm hole. I don't know if #80 rod, or wire is available, but drills are and are about the right diameter.

centering a drill on the hole so it doesn't get broken is a bit of a challenge, but if the nozzle is mounted on a mandrel - machined version of the bolt held by a collet, it might run close enough so I can run a drill through it.

fW ever else its worth. I've been printing on the Kapton covered glass sheets same as the one the M2 ships with using Elmers super stick glue. no problems at all. I've been buying new nozzles, but eventually I need to revive them.

thanks for the thoughts,

john

airscapes
Posts: 132
Joined: Wed Jan 31, 2018 11:36 pm

Re: nozzle drawing?

Post by airscapes » Tue Jun 26, 2018 2:30 pm

The tape works great with PETG. I use the caned air upside down to get the print off without damage to the tape. Also built a jig (found another post about that) which lets you put the tape back on really well and fairly fast.

I do use the glue stick with EPA as that stuff does not freeze off and rips the tape.

I just bought some eSun cleaning filament.. Very finicky stuff to use as it is not round or consistent. However it has a huge melting window so you can extract your PETG and run a few inches of the cleaner at the end of the day to clear the PETG.. Next day you can load whatever you want be it PLA PETG, ABS.. I think the range on the cleaner is 160 to 280 so no more mucking with a torch for me.. However it does jamb so you gota go real slow with it.

jferguson
Posts: 123
Joined: Mon Mar 30, 2015 7:26 pm

Re: nozzle drawing?

Post by jferguson » Tue Jun 26, 2018 5:07 pm

I haven't had good luck with the cleaning filament, although maybe if i did what you do and use it before a jam, maybe at the end of each say, then I wouldn't have the problem i do. Cleaning filament doesn't seem to be same diameter - i suppose i could measure it, so sometimes if the hot end is only partially occluded, I can push it through.

I have a Proxxon milling table to go with my Proxxon drill press and of course the proxxon. Maybe I could make this into a rig for drilling out jammed nozzles. it would mean taking a lot of care to make sure the bit is cnetered on the nozzle hole, but WTH, it's worth $10 per shot.

airscapes
Posts: 132
Joined: Wed Jan 31, 2018 11:36 pm

Re: nozzle drawing?

Post by airscapes » Tue Jun 26, 2018 6:55 pm

I just recently got that cleaning filament and prior to that never had a fully blocked nozzle, but could see reduced output occasionally . I have only started using PETG so maybe that will come with time.. Normally each day, prior to the cleaning filament, I would heat the extruder and run 100 -200 mm of filament at about 40mm a time and vigorously rub the nozzle with a paper towel to help remove buggers in the nozzle.. Been doing this for a while especially using the .25 nozzle

jferguson
Posts: 123
Joined: Mon Mar 30, 2015 7:26 pm

Re: nozzle drawing?

Post by jferguson » Tue Jun 26, 2018 10:00 pm

Hi Airscapes.
I never had a blocked nozzle printing PLA either with the M2 or the earlier TinyBoy. Maybe 30 rolls of PLA through them. I suppose this is nuts, but I'm now thinking of making a fixture for holding the nozzle in a cavity which will fit the connical end and clamp it by pressure on the other end and having a #80 hole bored in the end with the concave conical surface such that the dril will be well aligned with the hole in the end of the nozzle. I sjuuspect that the hole is more likely to be concentric with the cone than with the 1/4-20 threads.

There is never a problem which cannot be solved with complicated macnhinery - a lesson I learned from my German grandfather.

Gwhite
Posts: 172
Joined: Tue Jul 11, 2017 3:38 pm

Re: nozzle drawing?

Post by Gwhite » Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:10 am

I've had some success removing baked on crud from a nozzle used for a mix of PETG & PLA. I soaked it in "Zar Paint and Varnish Remover", which is about 95% methylene chloride. It's nasty stuff, and you should use gloves and good ventilation. There's still a bit of carbon on the outside, but the bore of the nozzle appears to be nice & clean. Given that I had a spare nozzle and didn't need it immediately, I just let it sit in a tiny glass jar of the stuff for a week.

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