S3d Default profile

Have questions or comments about Simplify3D, Slic3r, Cura, Reptier, etc? Or wondering about which CAD software to use...discuss it here...
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Vandal968
Posts: 212
Joined: Mon Jul 13, 2015 4:30 am

S3d Default profile

Post by Vandal968 » Thu Aug 02, 2018 4:43 am

Why doesn't S3D ship with a default profile for the MakerGear that prints well? Every new owner has to come here and ask about layer shifting and then adjust their speeds. Every new user has to wonder why their support material breaks off the bed and then learns to add pads. Every new user gets lots of zits and has to turn on wipe, etc. Why aren't all these things just part of the standard profile instead of making every single new user re-invent the wheel with each printer sold?

c

airscapes
Posts: 260
Joined: Wed Jan 31, 2018 11:36 pm

Re: S3d Default profile

Post by airscapes » Thu Aug 02, 2018 10:52 am

Vandal968 wrote:
Thu Aug 02, 2018 4:43 am
Why doesn't S3D ship with a default profile for the MakerGear that prints well? Every new owner has to come here and ask about layer shifting and then adjust their speeds. Every new user has to wonder why their support material breaks off the bed and then learns to add pads. Every new user gets lots of zits and has to turn on wipe, etc. Why aren't all these things just part of the standard profile instead of making every single new user re-invent the wheel with each printer sold?

c
Because 3D printing is not a science yet, still a boat load of art involved.. slinging molten plastic out of a .35mm nozzle at high speed and making really accurate items is a very difficult thing to do. I posted something like you said just said back in Feb of this year.. took about a month to figure out and believe that is just "Doesn't work well out of the box" You need to learn S3D which is a bitch, because their documentation sucks!! This is not MGs fault, the defaults do work but each model, and each filament and each nozzle size is going to be different. You have to calibrate your extrusion multiplayer for each filament and each time you change filament rolls or nozzle sizes. Filament from a reliable source can be inconstant in diameter and cause under and over extrusion so you need a digital caliper to measure it every so often Staring height and bead level is very important to get right and MGs app suck, so you have to do it manually. This requires a digital caliper if you don't have one. You will never get prefect prints with FFF, if you want injection molding quality you will be doing a lot of post printing processing.. you can get really good results but it is not Plug and play. I felt you pain between Feb and April! I will try and find some of the post here and S3D forum and edit this post with the links. Once you get over the curve you will be fine.
What printer do you have?
Doug

S3D user compiled documentation http://www.breathflute.com/pdf/S3D_SettingsCG.pdf
S3D offical Docs https://www.simplify3d.com/support/

TerryL
Posts: 10
Joined: Wed Jun 07, 2017 1:47 am
Location: Wisconsin, USA

Re: S3d Default profile

Post by TerryL » Thu Aug 02, 2018 6:05 pm

airscapes wrote:
Thu Aug 02, 2018 10:52 am
S3D user compiled documentation http://www.breathflute.com/pdf/S3D_SettingsCG.pdf

Whoa... Thanks for the link Doug, That looks like a great document (I printed it for further review and reference)


Terry

airscapes
Posts: 260
Joined: Wed Jan 31, 2018 11:36 pm

Re: S3d Default profile

Post by airscapes » Thu Aug 02, 2018 6:22 pm

Yeah it is helpful but what helped me the most was printing D&D miniatures for a co worker.. really hard to print tiny when first learning!
On your questions about support coming loose.. On the support tab, there is a setting support base layers.. it will only make them on the bed and if I have a lot of little support on the bed I set it to 6 or 8 solid layers .. takes a little longer but they don't brake loose if your starting height is correct and your are extruding the proper amount of plastic. You can also use a brim to hold the support even tighter. on the additions tab make sure skirt brim is checked, always good to use a skirt 1 layer 4 passes. But it is normally set to 4mm from part.. If you change that to 0 it will put the skirt against the part and the supports to hold them tighter. You should not need this but if using ABS it can help with the ends warping.. in the case of ABS I set it to 8 passed ..

Gwhite
Posts: 211
Joined: Tue Jul 11, 2017 3:38 pm

Re: S3d Default profile

Post by Gwhite » Thu Aug 02, 2018 8:12 pm

Vandal968 wrote:
Thu Aug 02, 2018 4:43 am
Why doesn't S3D ship with a default profile for the MakerGear that prints well? Every new owner has to come here and ask about layer shifting and then adjust their speeds. Every new user has to wonder why their support material breaks off the bed and then learns to add pads. Every new user gets lots of zits and has to turn on wipe, etc. Why aren't all these things just part of the standard profile instead of making every single new user re-invent the wheel with each printer sold?

c
Mine worked fine, using the default S3D process with MakerGear PLA and using simple models. Any deviation from that and you get to start up the learning curve. This isn't like sending a document to a laser printer. Changing from one "identical" spool to a new one requires re-calibration, and even changing color of filament can have big effects. As soon as you have a model that is large, requires supports, bridging or any other major changes, it can take a while to dial things in.

That's all just with good quality PLA. If you cheap out on filament or change to a different material, you get to learn more new stuff again.

Vandal968
Posts: 212
Joined: Mon Jul 13, 2015 4:30 am

Re: S3d Default profile

Post by Vandal968 » Fri Aug 03, 2018 12:54 am

That's a good document Airscapes, thank you for posting it.

While, I agree with the broad-strokes of "everyone will get best results by tuning their printer" I don't believe that a crap profile that everyone has to change is better than a profile that might work great for 80% of people out of the box. I bring this up because I bought my machine a few years ago, tweaked stuff, got it to print really well, then after a few years of not really messing with it, had to do a clean install on a new windows install. A lot of things I hadn't touched in a years such as speed and acceleration, I had to change all over again. And if you read the forum, EVERYONE has to change these settings if they ever print large objects. There is a ton of wasted effort by distributing a default profile with such dramatic shortcomings in it. If these printers were being carved out of wood in a cave in Uzbekistan, I agree, there would never be a one size fits all solution, but just reading all the posts, the vast majority of people zero-in on the same settings and making every person do it every time from scratch is silly.

/rantoff

cheers,
c

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