Yep, that's the stuff. There's definitely a quality difference between the cheap PTFE tubing and the Capricorn brand. The cheap stuff melts when printing at 240 C, whereas the Capricorn stuff has a much higher melting point. Found that out the hard way on my other printer

After some printer sketchiness the past several months, I noticed that the ptfe tube in the heatbreak was in bad shape. The inner diameter was super worn. Before I splurged on a new heatbreak, I wondered if I could just replace the tube, just like I’ve done for other non-makergear printers. I took t...

Thanks, good to know. I'm not sure where I saw/read/heard that all V4 hotends were all metal. I probably just assumed it because it can get up to 300C, whereas every other PTFE-lined hotend I've come across typically maxes out at 250C before the PTFE degrades. I had the hotend PTFE melt on my other ...

Makergear printers have been well known for their all-metal hotends (at least I thought they were). So, imagine my surprise when I saw the description for the replacement heatbreak barrels on the Makergear store site: https://www.makergear.com/collections/parts/products/v4-barrel "V4 Barrel with hig...

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but I'm experiencing the same problems as you. Did the new hotend solve the issue?

Unfortunately, I only have PLA at the moment. I went ahead and put paper shims underneath the x axis rail at the 5 middle-most spots between screws. I checked the rail with the straightedge again, and there's no bowing to speak of. :D I printed the 1-layer grid to check, and the left and right sides...

Hang on the boss....let me ask a few questions and you let me know what you think. What is the heated build plate sitting on right now ? (Going to assume the stock rubber corners. Each of them are a different thickness, go ahead, take them off, and measure them. You might end up finding that each o...

I've noticed ever since I got my M2 a couple months ago that no matter how hard I try leveling the build plate, the left and right edges of the bed are always "lower" than the center. I printed a 1 layer thick, 2 perimeter wide grid across the entire bed, and I saw that the entire center section fro...

Thanks for the information! I'll definitely keep the multiple slicing parameters in mind for the future. By the way, what temperature do you run Makergear PLA at? And do you have a modified fan system and/or duct?

So I tried to print just one propeller. Key word here is "tried". It was fine until 4 mm up, when the prop got out of the bed plate "ground effect" and there was less effective airflow from the fan. This was on 0.1 mm layer height. What gives? I'm printing at 12 mm/s for perimeters. Clearly there ne...