Re: Retrofitting a Duet 2 wifi into Makergear M2 Rev. E
Posted: Thu Dec 09, 2021 12:33 am
Nice job on the case. I should have turned the board like you did rather than having all the cables crossing the board like the Rambo did.
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No, I did not remove the dampers yet.. So maybe it is not as quiet with them off.. ?? After listening to that video, with the dampers still in place, are your undampened steppers louder or just as silent?
Hey I just got the build-tak system and have been doing the dial indicator grid check for a long time as well. I mounted my build-tak to the glass bed, and I know the bed always changed position at higher temps. Center rises and outer edge at X0 is goes down and oposite up at 110C. So I remembered this post of yours and order some .1mm steel shim stock and cut it to fit where things go down at 110 and seems to work well. It sticks to the magnets nice and then polymide tape (.02} toped to get that one side same as the center when hot. Have a different shim for 70C. Still thinking about a Z probe.. have you do that yet? If so which type of probe did you use. I am such an old dog, don't want to mess with what works.. still using S3D 4.01Farr0wn3d wrote: ↑Thu Nov 25, 2021 6:30 amAirscapes, I just realized that I missed one of your question posts before. I do not have a BL touch sensor. I mechanically level my bed using a dial indicator and recording the measurements in a grid pattern and then I strategically apply layers of kapton tape to the underside of the buildtak flexplate to level it out. It’s great. Keeps it uniform and level all around.
MicroSD card was included and pre flashed.
I’m currently in the hospital for a couple weeks, so I can’t send my config files, but I can send them in a couple weeks once I’m home again. My setup is fairly different from stock so either way you will have to modify it to work with a stock trim m2.
For the wiring I just removed the 6 wires from the loom and put in 2 individual wires (14awg I believe, I spec’d the wire for the max draw at that length). If you wanted to connect them all in parallel that would be fine, but the conductors are stiff, and I don’t think you could fit 3 into the ferrules so I would proabably do 1 or 2 for each input and disconnect the unused wires from the rails in the PSU. Obviously you’ll want to be careful with any wires left unconnected and loose. That’s one of the reasons why I opted to just remove them all and put in 2 new ones.
I have no plans to use a bed probe. I'm happy with how it is, and although I retrofitted a bondtech extruder onto it to improve performance with flexibles, I dont plan on doing any further modifications to this printer unless a failure forces me to. I got a laser cutter last year and an SLA printer recently, so I expect to be spending my time on those more moving forward and I just want my M2 to work when I need it. I MIGHT upgrade to the new S3D, but thats hard to say as I'm also an old dog and cant tolerate the learning curve on things that I dont expect to use a lot.airscapes wrote: ↑Wed Jan 11, 2023 10:17 pmHey I just got the build-tak system and have been doing the dial indicator grid check for a long time as well. I mounted my build-tak to the glass bed, and I know the bed always changed position at higher temps. Center rises and outer edge at X0 is goes down and oposite up at 110C. So I remembered this post of yours and order some .1mm steel shim stock and cut it to fit where things go down at 110 and seems to work well. It sticks to the magnets nice and then polymide tape (.02} toped to get that one side same as the center when hot. Have a different shim for 70C. Still thinking about a Z probe.. have you do that yet? If so which type of probe did you use. I am such an old dog, don't want to mess with what works.. still using S3D 4.01Farr0wn3d wrote: ↑Thu Nov 25, 2021 6:30 amAirscapes, I just realized that I missed one of your question posts before. I do not have a BL touch sensor. I mechanically level my bed using a dial indicator and recording the measurements in a grid pattern and then I strategically apply layers of kapton tape to the underside of the buildtak flexplate to level it out. It’s great. Keeps it uniform and level all around.
MicroSD card was included and pre flashed.
I’m currently in the hospital for a couple weeks, so I can’t send my config files, but I can send them in a couple weeks once I’m home again. My setup is fairly different from stock so either way you will have to modify it to work with a stock trim m2.
For the wiring I just removed the 6 wires from the loom and put in 2 individual wires (14awg I believe, I spec’d the wire for the max draw at that length). If you wanted to connect them all in parallel that would be fine, but the conductors are stiff, and I don’t think you could fit 3 into the ferrules so I would proabably do 1 or 2 for each input and disconnect the unused wires from the rails in the PSU. Obviously you’ll want to be careful with any wires left unconnected and loose. That’s one of the reasons why I opted to just remove them all and put in 2 new ones.