3mm options
3mm options
I am currently looking at new printers and the M2 is obviously high on my list of choices. The one sticking point - 1.75 mm. I am currently sitting on quite a large stash of 3 mm filament - some of it quite expensive and specialty. In addition I feel that 3 mm is overall a better media (cost etc).
Does anyone have any experience converting the M2 to 3 MM and if so can you give me a brief overview of how hard it was, what was required etc.
Any help would be appreciated.
Does anyone have any experience converting the M2 to 3 MM and if so can you give me a brief overview of how hard it was, what was required etc.
Any help would be appreciated.
Re: 3mm options
This is somewhat of an unusual request but I don't think it's unreasonable...
There's this part on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:37774
That should bolt onto the stock extruder housing. You'll then need a 3mm hotend. You can convert the stock one to 3mm with the following parts from MG:
* http://www.makergear.com/products/plast ... ment-parts ("36mm barrel with both ends turned down for 3mm")
* http://www.makergear.com/products/groovemounts ("V3 Hybrid groovemount for 3mm filament")
* http://www.makergear.com/products/nozzles ("0.35mm BigHead nozzle") -- optional but HIGHLY recommended
-- or --
* http://www.makergear.com/products/extruders ("V3b extruder kit with 0.35mm nozzle (standard for 1.75mm filament)")
* http://www.makergear.com/products/extruders ("Replace 1.75mm parts with 3mm parts")
A purchase of an M2 comes with a spool of plastic. MakerGear allowed me to substitute ABS for the default PLA, and this included spool of 1.75 is more than enough to get the machine calibrated, the suggested replacement parts (motor mount) printed, a toolset or two, and then a pair of the 3mm extruder bodies.
Conversion is pretty easy but will require disassembly of your 1.75mm hotend. It's not a complicated task though. Or, pay a few bucks more, and have MG send you a ready-to-run 3mm extruder that'll notch right in where your 1.75 is. Change out the printed part and you're done.
There's this part on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:37774
That should bolt onto the stock extruder housing. You'll then need a 3mm hotend. You can convert the stock one to 3mm with the following parts from MG:
* http://www.makergear.com/products/plast ... ment-parts ("36mm barrel with both ends turned down for 3mm")
* http://www.makergear.com/products/groovemounts ("V3 Hybrid groovemount for 3mm filament")
* http://www.makergear.com/products/nozzles ("0.35mm BigHead nozzle") -- optional but HIGHLY recommended
-- or --
* http://www.makergear.com/products/extruders ("V3b extruder kit with 0.35mm nozzle (standard for 1.75mm filament)")
* http://www.makergear.com/products/extruders ("Replace 1.75mm parts with 3mm parts")
A purchase of an M2 comes with a spool of plastic. MakerGear allowed me to substitute ABS for the default PLA, and this included spool of 1.75 is more than enough to get the machine calibrated, the suggested replacement parts (motor mount) printed, a toolset or two, and then a pair of the 3mm extruder bodies.
Conversion is pretty easy but will require disassembly of your 1.75mm hotend. It's not a complicated task though. Or, pay a few bucks more, and have MG send you a ready-to-run 3mm extruder that'll notch right in where your 1.75 is. Change out the printed part and you're done.
Custom 3D printing for you or your business -- quote [at] pingring.org
Re: 3mm options
Thanks for the info.
Ultimately I would like to replace the hotend with an E3D version but I think you might be on to the best solution whereby I ask for ABS filament instead of PLA and print up the 3mm part in that. For the sake of 65 bucks I think the prebuilt 3mm hotend is the way to go.
I am glad to hear that its not a monumental task to swap out the part. I have previously built several printers and so am not completely inept but obviously nobody wants to have to completely take apart their new toy
I would imagine the feed rate would need to be tweaked when using 3mm filament.
Ultimately I would like to replace the hotend with an E3D version but I think you might be on to the best solution whereby I ask for ABS filament instead of PLA and print up the 3mm part in that. For the sake of 65 bucks I think the prebuilt 3mm hotend is the way to go.
I am glad to hear that its not a monumental task to swap out the part. I have previously built several printers and so am not completely inept but obviously nobody wants to have to completely take apart their new toy
I would imagine the feed rate would need to be tweaked when using 3mm filament.
Re: 3mm options
i would imagine there are some firmware changes...no??
Re: 3mm options
There may be some around the esteps, but that's up in the air and to be determined by calibration. The slicing software certainly has to be made aware of 3mm filament.jimc wrote:i would imagine there are some firmware changes...no??
Custom 3D printing for you or your business -- quote [at] pingring.org
Re: 3mm options
Might need to adjust PID settings based on the different heating characteristics of the alternate nozzle, but that can be done through software, and I can't think of anything else that would require a firmware change.
Re: 3mm options
That's true for the E3D, but not if he just converts a V3b over to 3mm.Tim wrote:Might need to adjust PID settings based on the different heating characteristics of the alternate nozzle, but that can be done through software, and I can't think of anything else that would require a firmware change.
Custom 3D printing for you or your business -- quote [at] pingring.org
Re: 3mm options
This was a hotly contested topic on the Makerbot group when they announced the switch from 3mm to 1.75mm with the Replicator series. I'm still split on whether or not it was the right choice... I get the physics argument that 1.75mm = 41% less material to extrude and subsequently have to try and retract. But I look at That Other Major Printer From Europe whose latest model still uses 2.85mm and their print quality and print speeds are fantastic, with little to no issues in retraction.
Regardless, I have a couple old spools of 3mm filament you're welcome to, since I have no ambition of trying to convert my M2 to 3mm. Would just need to figure out shipping. PM me if you're interested; I'd rather not throw it out.
Regardless, I have a couple old spools of 3mm filament you're welcome to, since I have no ambition of trying to convert my M2 to 3mm. Would just need to figure out shipping. PM me if you're interested; I'd rather not throw it out.
Re: 3mm options
Believe me if all I had was "a couple of spools" I would convert easily (despite thinking 3mm is a better media) but I have dozens.msmollin wrote:This was a hotly contested topic on the Makerbot group when they announced the switch from 3mm to 1.75mm with the Replicator series. I'm still split on whether or not it was the right choice... I get the physics argument that 1.75mm = 41% less material to extrude and subsequently have to try and retract. But I look at That Other Major Printer From Europe whose latest model still uses 2.85mm and their print quality and print speeds are fantastic, with little to no issues in retraction.
Regardless, I have a couple old spools of 3mm filament you're welcome to, since I have no ambition of trying to convert my M2 to 3mm. Would just need to figure out shipping. PM me if you're interested; I'd rather not throw it out.
I am still on the fence as to whether is worth the effort, the M2 seems like an amazing machine but the hassle may outweigh that.
Either way I really appreciate the feedback Ive been given here.
Re: 3mm options
Its really not that big of a hassle. It's printing 1 part, undoing 2 screws, removing the old part, installing the new printed part with the 3mm hotend. Then set the filament diameter in your slicing software to 2.85mm (or whatever you measure it to be). I honestly believe it took me longer to find all the links for you in my reply than it'd take to do the job.
Custom 3D printing for you or your business -- quote [at] pingring.org