2nd day with the M2 and having issues, Help appreciated!

[AndrewK]

Hello again. So I have my M2 up and running. Ive printed a few little things off thingiverse. My issue seems to be the first 3 layers. Some areas in those layers are wavy and do not seem to adhere well. Also any amount of overhang fails and droops. If the overhang is small in height the edges curl up and cause problems. I am heated up to 70c printing on bare glass and it seems to work perfect. Not one problem sticking. I run the extruder at 215c as the instructions suggest. Ive copied most slic3r settings from successful print guides online. Not sure where I am going wrong! I am using Slic3r and Pronterface. Any help is appreciated!

[Bratag]

Have you tried a spray of extra hold hair spray, works amazingly well for me with almost anything I am printing.

Make sure you have your Z stop set correctly as you need a nice contact on that first layer , almost a little smooshed into it.

As far as overhang droops etc ... could it be a need for support? are you cooling the piece correctly? PLA likes to be cooled as fast as possible , especially if you want things not to droop.

[ednisley]

My issue seems to be the first 3 layers

Must be something going around:
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1994

I think a tiny adjustment of the platform's initial Z=0 position will solve your problem, too.

[Vprints]

Just piling on as a complete n00b (got my M2 mid-February) -- adjusting the Z end stop made all the difference in the world for me with the first few layers.

(Not very coincidentally, one of the first things I subsequently printed was a tool for adjusting the Z end stop screw & nut -- http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:198811)

[msmollin]

Not to state what might seem obvious, but did you level the bed after getting your M2 running? Mine printed OK out of the box, but I would have adhesion issues as soon I had to print anything off-center of the platform. Picked up a gapping tool and ran through the S3D bed leveling program a bunch of times using the gapping tool (because it's far more accurate than the "sheet of paper" approach makergear recommends in their videos) and now it prints lovely across the entire platform.

[AndrewK]

Thanks for all the feedback guys, I am a bit frustrated but working through it! I have leveled the bed as best as I can, set end stops and set Z with that same handy printed tool! I can print a 1 layer test cube perfectly but when trying anything else i get major issues. any tiny bit of overhang globs and curls up. If I use any support material settings in slic3r they either do not help or will not come off the part when done. I have to run at least 4 perimeter layers with tweezers handy as the filament will not lay down for the first 2 perimeter layers. I extrude a bunch of filament before each print to ensure its flowing but it seems to just not come out when the print starts. It seems like everything I do gets me one step closer to one fix and creates another problem. I have unfortunately not had any luck using slic3r configurations for the M2 found online. I just do not see where my issue is coming from... I know there is a learning curve and I am a pretty handy guy, but this machine is putting up a fight!

[ednisley]

the filament will not lay down for the first 2 perimeter layers

OK, that's a glaring clue: bad first-layer adhesion ruins everything above it. No point in trying anything else until you solve that problem.

In your first post, you mention you're printing on bare glass. If you're still doing that, stop everything, get some super ultimate mega overkill sticky hairspray (ideally, in a pump bottle, rather than a pressure can), and use that. Aim Google at the forum (with site:forum.makergear.com "hair spray", not the useless forum search box in the upper right corner), to find some product recommendations. Some folks swear by glue sticks, but everybody swears at bare glass.

If you're printing the first layer at full speed, slow down to 25 mm/s = 1500 mm/min. That gives the thread time to bond to the platform, so it won't pull loose on the corners.

Measure the thickness of the actual skirt thread (with a cheap Harbor-Freight-grade digital caliper or thickness gauge) and compare with what it should be. I put Z=0 at the platform and print the first layer with no additional plastic or offset, so it's exactly the same thickness & width as all the others. If the slicer parameters call for a 0.20 mm thick first layer and you're seeing twice that, then either your Z=0 setting is way off or the slicer settings aren't coherent.

Print five thinwall boxes at the same time: one in the center and four in the corners. Each box height should be spot on its nominal height; if not, then readjust the platform until they are. The center box cross-checks your initial height adjustment, too.

Remember: you learn more from mistakes than successes. When you've figured out the problem(s), you'll be well on your way to expertise... [grin]

[akkrolnik]

What is the S3D bed leveling program that was referenced by msmollin? I am also having similar issues with larger parts and would like to use a more precise tool if possible.

[Rara]

Some folks swear by glue sticks, but everybody swears at bare glass.

I must be some sort of freak, I had rather good luck with PLA on bare glass...and nothing stuck to Aquanet the couple times I tried it.