This years Valentines Gift
- Mike Hunter
- Posts: 48
- Joined: Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:26 pm
- Location: Western Massachusetts
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Re: This years Valentines Gift
Just a quick update. Level 2 came out as the others have, needing lots of hand finishing to remove strings.
However, the top level needs some fine tuning as the very top, which is supposed to be circular, came out a bit lopsided. I was there when it was printed and slowed the feed down 40%, but no luck. I'm going to modify the S3D process and run it again tomorrow.
I can't convey enough how impressed I am with this machine. With the ability to print small cross sections as in this model, my mind is running wild with ideas.
Mike H.
However, the top level needs some fine tuning as the very top, which is supposed to be circular, came out a bit lopsided. I was there when it was printed and slowed the feed down 40%, but no luck. I'm going to modify the S3D process and run it again tomorrow.
I can't convey enough how impressed I am with this machine. With the ability to print small cross sections as in this model, my mind is running wild with ideas.
Mike H.
Continually learning and discovering.
Re: This years Valentines Gift
If it were me, I'd split the top spire at the last platform and just print the top with many skirt layers to form a shell to allow the thin bits to cool between layers.
What temperatures are you running at? I've found very little stringing at 225 for PLA with 1mm retraction at 3000 mm/min. Lower temperatures: less stringing, worse layer bonding, higher possibility of a clog if you drop too low. Higher temperatures: easier flow for fast print speeds, maybe better surface finish, increased stringing.
What temperatures are you running at? I've found very little stringing at 225 for PLA with 1mm retraction at 3000 mm/min. Lower temperatures: less stringing, worse layer bonding, higher possibility of a clog if you drop too low. Higher temperatures: easier flow for fast print speeds, maybe better surface finish, increased stringing.
- Mike Hunter
- Posts: 48
- Joined: Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:26 pm
- Location: Western Massachusetts
- Contact:
Re: This years Valentines Gift
THANKS jsc.
At the moment I'm attempting to print using 3 different "processes" in S3D, each with parameters set for it's particular section. Just out of curiosity, what software do you use to modify or tweak .stl files? I have Solidworks 2014 and Rhino5 (90 day evaluation), the later being a better program to remove features such as the handrails around Level 2. Solidworks will do the job, but even on the "big" computer, it slows down to a crawl when working with .stl files and is prone to crashing.
The first attempt, shown in the previous post, was run at (extrud) 215c, (bed) 45c and speed of 1440 mm/min. Retraction was set to 1.40mm. Layer height at .1mm
Mike H.
At the moment I'm attempting to print using 3 different "processes" in S3D, each with parameters set for it's particular section. Just out of curiosity, what software do you use to modify or tweak .stl files? I have Solidworks 2014 and Rhino5 (90 day evaluation), the later being a better program to remove features such as the handrails around Level 2. Solidworks will do the job, but even on the "big" computer, it slows down to a crawl when working with .stl files and is prone to crashing.
The first attempt, shown in the previous post, was run at (extrud) 215c, (bed) 45c and speed of 1440 mm/min. Retraction was set to 1.40mm. Layer height at .1mm
Mike H.
Continually learning and discovering.
Re: This years Valentines Gift
For general purpose STL editing, meshmixer is pretty good, although the learning curve is pretty bad, the best "documentation" consists of trawling for youtube videos of people doing approximately the same things you want to do, and in the past has tended to crash fairly easily. I think that SolidWorks has some geometry recovery features when working with meshes (like STLs) that let it discern things like planes and arcs; that sounds pretty useful, but I'm not an expert with SolidWorks.
If you want to split a model along a plane, a simple trick is to drop part of the model below the bed using S3D's placement dialog (double click the model). Then make a copy, flip it over, and drop that down to the same split location. You will have to do some arithmetic based on the model z extents and origins.
Regarding stringing, 1.4mm and 215C should be sufficient to avoid any stringing. Have you changed your travel or retraction speed?
If you want to split a model along a plane, a simple trick is to drop part of the model below the bed using S3D's placement dialog (double click the model). Then make a copy, flip it over, and drop that down to the same split location. You will have to do some arithmetic based on the model z extents and origins.
Regarding stringing, 1.4mm and 215C should be sufficient to avoid any stringing. Have you changed your travel or retraction speed?
- Mike Hunter
- Posts: 48
- Joined: Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:26 pm
- Location: Western Massachusetts
- Contact:
Re: This years Valentines Gift
Thanks for the suggestion jsc, I did indeed drop the top level down (in S3D) so as to print only the very top spire. As an added measure, I printed two spires, one 20mm behind the other. My thinking, as novice as it is when it comes to 3D printing, is that while the back spire is printing, the front spire is right under the 50mm fan getting all the cooling it can. I was thinking of adding a dwell between layers, but I didn't want the molten plastic staying in the hot end and clumping when it finally started flowing again (if that makes any sense). The twin prints seemed less problematic.jsc wrote:If it were me, I'd split the top spire at the last platform and just print the top with many skirt layers to form a shell to allow the thin bits to cool between layers.
What temperatures are you running at? I've found very little stringing at 225 for PLA with 1mm retraction at 3000 mm/min. Lower temperatures: less stringing, worse layer bonding, higher possibility of a clog if you drop too low. Higher temperatures: easier flow for fast print speeds, maybe better surface finish, increased stringing.
So now the printing is complete and I have just two days to deburr, assemble and mount the project. Don't you just love how time flies when your on vacation or have an important project to complete. Here's a pic of the tower on the base.
Mike H.
Continually learning and discovering.
Re: This years Valentines Gift
Considering how most novices to 3D printing ask if they can print parts like the thing is a replicator from Star Trek, I'd say you're a bit ahead of the curve here with your thinking.Mike Hunter wrote:Thanks for the suggestion jsc, I did indeed drop the top level down (in S3D) so as to print only the very top spire. As an added measure, I printed two spires, one 20mm behind the other. My thinking, as novice as it is when it comes to 3D printing, is that while the back spire is printing, the front spire is right under the 50mm fan getting all the cooling it can. I was thinking of adding a dwell between layers, but I didn't want the molten plastic staying in the hot end and clumping when it finally started flowing again (if that makes any sense). The twin prints seemed less problematic.jsc wrote:If it were me, I'd split the top spire at the last platform and just print the top with many skirt layers to form a shell to allow the thin bits to cool between layers.
What temperatures are you running at? I've found very little stringing at 225 for PLA with 1mm retraction at 3000 mm/min. Lower temperatures: less stringing, worse layer bonding, higher possibility of a clog if you drop too low. Higher temperatures: easier flow for fast print speeds, maybe better surface finish, increased stringing.
So now the printing is complete and I have just two days to deburr, assemble and mount the project. Don't you just love how time flies when your on vacation or have an important project to complete. Here's a pic of the tower on the base.
Mike H.
Custom 3D printing for you or your business -- quote [at] pingring.org
Re: This years Valentines Gift
I agree, for a "novice", you're tackling a pretty advanced large scale print, with fine details, involved printing techniques, and some assembly required. Good job.
- Mike Hunter
- Posts: 48
- Joined: Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:26 pm
- Location: Western Massachusetts
- Contact:
Re: This years Valentines Gift
THANKS. Having the opportunity to draw from your experiences, as well as that of others, makes my transition to Additive Manufacturing much easier.
Mike H.
Mike H.
Continually learning and discovering.
- pyronaught
- Posts: 684
- Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2014 8:24 pm
Re: This years Valentines Gift
I give them to my 2 year old boy, who is very fascinated with the printer and thinks everything that comes off of it is some kind of toy.Jules wrote:That's incredible! (Bet she loves it.)
Just out of curiosity - what do you do with the unwanted bits from bad prints? Any way to reuse them? Turn them into ABS juice?
Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted.
Re: This years Valentines Gift
Lucky boy! (I'd have thought the same thing at that age!)I give them to my 2 year old boy, who is very fascinated with the printer and thinks everything that comes off of it is some kind of toy.