E3D V6

[Bratag]

Jimc

Unfortunately I am not that proficient at 3d modeling that would warrant a Rhino license. I am more what you would call "Bad" at it

[Lateralg]

gary, thats right on the temp sensor. as for max pid i do know i had to lower mine but im not on 24v. im 19v with a 12v heater so it was ramping up really quick. you will know if you need to reduce the max pid because when you run the auotune sequence it will overshoot too far and the autotune wont work. i think if you over shoot by 20 to 30 deg then it errors out. if it does cut your max pid by 25% and try again. the thermistor is rated to 300 deg by the manufacturer. you should not be ramping up over that. start running your pid autotune at 225 and see what happens.

1) Are there alternatives to the E3D Thermister? I've damaged three attempting their prescribed build procedure, (I am not a Neurosurgeon) and fried one doing PID autotune. #'s 5 & 6 are on order. I see this as the weakest link in the E3D extruder.

2) What is PID Auto tune and nozzle torque procedure that has been successful for M2 24V users?

M2 with 24V conversion.

[Bratag]

I am about to run my E3d through the auto tune etc tonight. I know they recommend starting the tune at least 30 degrees below 295.
I had all sorts of issues getting the sleeving to stay all the way snugged up to the thermistor eventually restoring to the smallest dab of super glue to hold them until I could get it screwed down. I know that if the bare wires of the thermistor touch the block you get false readings.

[Lateralg]

I I know they recommend starting the tune at least 30 degrees below 295..

I missed that. Where did you see it?

I had all sorts of issues getting the sleeving to stay all the way snugged up to the thermistor eventually restoring to the smallest dab of super glue to hold them until I could get it screwed down. I know that if the bare wires of the thermistor touch the block you get false readings.

So I'm not alone, eh? I think they should dedicate some effort toward a more robust thermister mounting.

[jimc]

printed solid has thermistors that are threaded and screw into the screw hole. with it being sort of external to the block i am pretty certain it wont read quite the same. it is also limited to 265deg. you can check it out though, its on their website. im sure matt could answer any questions about it if you shoot him an email. as for the stock thermistor, cut the blue insulation in half, slide it onto the thermistor leads so its up tight to the head of it then take a piece of blue tape, fold it in half and squeeze it around the head and insulation. this will hold everything tight while you do your crimps. slide the crimps onto the wires, bend the wire side and the thermistor leads into a hook. hook them together and squeeze the hooks tight onto each other, slide the ferrule over the hooks and just onto the blue sleeve then crimp it in place. heatshrink it all and you done.

[Bratag]

Well its in and have run the autotune and it extrudes ..... time to fire off a few calibration pieces. Thanks to everyone in this thread that gave great advice.

Oh and don't do what I did. Don't hit home all right after installing the hotend. It was only as the bed was coming up that I had the though "You know what if the hotend sits lower now" and smashed the emergency stop button. Could have been ugly

[Lateralg]

as for the stock thermistor, cut the blue insulation in half, slide it onto the thermistor leads so its up tight to the head of it then take a piece of blue tape, fold it in half and squeeze it around the head and insulation. this will hold everything tight while you do your crimps. slide the crimps onto the wires, bend the wire side and the thermistor leads into a hook. hook them together and squeeze the hooks tight onto each other, slide the ferrule over the hooks and just onto the blue sleeve then crimp it in place. heatshrink it all and you done.

Thanks Jim, looks good; that will be procedure for next try.

I'm still concerned about the PID & final nozzle torque process temperature. They recommend heating to within 10C of thermister death.

I'd like to hear from anyone who has successfully, or unsuccessfully done this.

[insta]

as for the stock thermistor, cut the blue insulation in half, slide it onto the thermistor leads so its up tight to the head of it then take a piece of blue tape, fold it in half and squeeze it around the head and insulation. this will hold everything tight while you do your crimps. slide the crimps onto the wires, bend the wire side and the thermistor leads into a hook. hook them together and squeeze the hooks tight onto each other, slide the ferrule over the hooks and just onto the blue sleeve then crimp it in place. heatshrink it all and you done.

Thanks Jim, looks good; that will be procedure for next try.

I'm still concerned about the PID & final nozzle torque process temperature. They recommend heating to within 10C of thermister death.

I'd like to hear from anyone who has successfully, or unsuccessfully done this.

The thermistor doesn't die at 300C, it just gets inaccurate above that. I'd guess max temperature is closer to 400C before its irreparably damaged, based on absolutely nothing.

[Bratag]

as for the stock thermistor, cut the blue insulation in half, slide it onto the thermistor leads so its up tight to the head of it then take a piece of blue tape, fold it in half and squeeze it around the head and insulation. this will hold everything tight while you do your crimps. slide the crimps onto the wires, bend the wire side and the thermistor leads into a hook. hook them together and squeeze the hooks tight onto each other, slide the ferrule over the hooks and just onto the blue sleeve then crimp it in place. heatshrink it all and you done.

Thanks Jim, looks good; that will be procedure for next try.

I'm still concerned about the PID & final nozzle torque process temperature. They recommend heating to within 10C of thermister death.

I'd like to hear from anyone who has successfully, or unsuccessfully done this.

The thermistor doesn't die at 300C, it just gets inaccurate above that. I'd guess max temperature is closer to 400C before its irreparably damaged, based on absolutely nothing.

Didn't have mine die but did note that the hotend does not want to stick at 285 , could be related I guess to the initial 5 degree overshoot (no amount of auto tuning seems to be able to rid me of it). It gets up to 290 then essentially switches off. Its strange as its completely rock solid at 245 -260.

Either way I am loving the hotend. Next to no ooze and I was even able to bump up my speeds a little.

[insta]

The thermistor doesn't die at 300C, it just gets inaccurate above that. I'd guess max temperature is closer to 400C before its irreparably damaged, based on absolutely nothing.

Didn't have mine die but did note that the hotend does not want to stick at 285 , could be related I guess to the initial 5 degree overshoot (no amount of auto tuning seems to be able to rid me of it). It gets up to 290 then essentially switches off. Its strange as its completely rock solid at 245 -260.

Either way I am loving the hotend. Next to no ooze and I was even able to bump up my speeds a little.

Ooooh you have your max temp set to 290 in the firmware, then? Does it say 'ERR: MAXTEMP' and die?