
I've successfully printed an entire plate of small parts, with two processes going (to turn off support for some), so it's not an obvious bug.
That's it exactly - the first time it sliced the flower thing, then once I saw what had printed, I ran it again. On subsequent runs with the exact same settings, it created a perfect honeycomb. Then it went just fine for another couple of hours with different filaments, then I saw another weird looking slice job, reloaded it, and it came out fine in the next slice.jsc wrote:Zipped factory file, Jules
I've successfully printed an entire plate of small parts, with two processes going (to turn off support for some), so it's not an obvious bug.
Many of us ignore the S3D bed leveling wizard entirely. The 3-point design of the bracket holding the glass plate and bed heater on the M2 makes it most convenient to just put the nozzle directly on top of each of those three points in sequence, and the adjustment of each one doesn't affect the position of the others. Although I haven't done it, it's probably worth writing a macro in S3D that will move the extruder to the first of these points (or maybe to the center position between the front and back points). All the points are separated by 5 and 10 cm, so it's really easy to manually jog to each one. I can't vouch for everyone's experience, but I seem to have a pretty flat and even glass plate, and if those three points are spot-on, the bed is as level as it's going to get.Jules wrote:I have to ask a question about how the Bed Leveling Wizard works
Look closely at the picture Jules posted. The one referred to as the "mandala pattern"---I'm pretty sure you can't get that by cutting corners. You get that by rotating the entire pattern. It may be a rare occurrance or triggered by some specific geometry, but it looks like a real error to me. Some of the automatically generated geometry in S3D is based on the absolute grid, so that you can get a different result on exactly the same part if it's in a different position from the previous slicing. The definitive question is whether or not that pattern rotation shows up in the gcode preview. That's the difference between a slicing artifact and a printing artifact.routr71 wrote:Jules - I ran a few prints and the honeycomb is printing just fine for me. I wonder if what happened on your print is that the first few layers didn't stick well enough, which means that each subsequent honeycomb layer didn't have much to stick to. The extruder moves pretty quick while it's printing that, so if it isn't sticking well, the sharp corners in the honeycomb pattern will end up looking more like wavy ovals.
The mandala wasn't a sticking problem, S3D actually sliced it that way. I thought that maybe something was wrong with the display, so I went ahead and printed it to see if it was going to do what was showing on the screen. It did. (Actually wouldn't mind duplicating that if it's possible - it's kind of cool.) But it hasn't duplicated that exact thing since. It did do one other funny slice, but I didn't print that one before I reloaded it to see if it would correct, which it did. that one looked a bit like it was trying to combine the Wavy pattern with the honeycomb. But in each case, it sliced the bottom layer(s?) in the chosen honeycomb pattern, then switched to something else. So I'm wondering if there isn't a specific "pattern by layer" artifact in the code somewhere.Tim wrote:Look closely at the picture Jules posted. The one referred to as the "mandala pattern"---I'm pretty sure you can't get that by cutting corners. You get that by rotating the entire pattern. It may be a rare occurrance or triggered by some specific geometry, but it looks like a real error to me. Some of the automatically generated geometry in S3D is based on the absolute grid, so that you can get a different result on exactly the same part if it's in a different position from the previous slicing. The definitive question is whether or not that pattern rotation shows up in the gcode preview. That's the difference between a slicing artifact and a printing artifact.routr71 wrote:Jules - I ran a few prints and the honeycomb is printing just fine for me. I wonder if what happened on your print is that the first few layers didn't stick well enough, which means that each subsequent honeycomb layer didn't have much to stick to. The extruder moves pretty quick while it's printing that, so if it isn't sticking well, the sharp corners in the honeycomb pattern will end up looking more like wavy ovals.
Yep! i finally had to abandon the Wizard, it was just taking too long, and all the running back and forth between the printer and the desk counted for one of my workout sessions yesterday! Chuckle!Tim wrote:Many of us ignore the S3D bed leveling wizard entirely. The 3-point design of the bracket holding the glass plate and bed heater on the M2 makes it most convenient to just put the nozzle directly on top of each of those three points in sequence, and the adjustment of each one doesn't affect the position of the others. Although I haven't done it, it's probably worth writing a macro in S3D that will move the extruder to the first of these points (or maybe to the center position between the front and back points). All the points are separated by 5 and 10 cm, so it's really easy to manually jog to each one. I can't vouch for everyone's experience, but I seem to have a pretty flat and even glass plate, and if those three points are spot-on, the bed is as level as it's going to get.Jules wrote:I have to ask a question about how the Bed Leveling Wizard works