Mic 6 tooling plate

[innkeeper]

as promised, here is a pic of my mb with the 1/4" cast aluminum tooling plate.
other mods you can see in the pic are the milled 6061 aluminum arms that replaced the plastic ones, and heftier hbp springs.
additional mods are 6061 milled aluminum filament block, and some custom bearing rod holders.
whole thing is weighed down with 20lbs of additional weight on the top to keep it from walking around at my normal build speeds (remember its made of wood)..

mg modified

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[ednisley]

a pic of my mb

Ahhh, that laser-cut plywood stirs up the memory pond's silt...

[innkeeper]

got a new piece of mic-6 on the way there even milling it to size for me ....sweet....less work for me
so i'll likely use the mic-6 for abs and zebra plate for everything else. glass when i am feeling nostalgic

i'll probably just stick to putting it on top of the existing anodized plate for now.i may put kapton on both sides to keep it from any damage between the two ...I'm more concentrating on the optical leveling system anyway.
retrofitting both the mb and the m2 for it.. i don't want to go with inductive sensors as i don't wanna be playing with changing z offsets every time i swap out build plates between glass zebra and mic-6.
(edit: ... incomplete sentence.. what else is new)

[Jules]

... i don't wanna be playing with changing z offsets every time i swap out build plates between glass zebra and mic-6

ROFL! Amen to that! My pile of profiles has gotten extremely unwieldy now....i hate to think of another batch for another plate.

[innkeeper]

Now if we can just get s3d to support volumetric extrusion also.... we wouldn't need to create new gcode every-time the filament size changes.

[insta]

Now if we can just get s3d to support volumetric extrusion also.... we wouldn't need to create new gcode every-time the filament size changes.

You can do this already, just set the filament diameter to whatever that goofy 1.12 number is, and set the diameter in your starting gcode.

[Tim]

A faster thermal transfer and less moving mass, really. The boro permanently on the M2 wouldnt' be a problem, if the boro was as strong as a slab of aluminum.

So why isn't anyone suggesting putting a layer of thermal transfer paste (a.k.a. thermal grease, heatsink compound) between the heated bed and the plate? I know it's an extra gunky mess to deal with whenever you want to take the plate off and clean it, but it solves the problem of having any air gap between the bed and the plate. Or is it just way messier for that kind of application than I'm aware of?

[innkeeper]

So why isn't anyone suggesting putting a layer of thermal transfer paste (a.k.a. thermal grease, heatsink compound) between the heated bed and the plate?

use vegetable oil, not only does it work to fill all those air gaps to help thermal transfer, but then you can cook breakfast on it when the prints are done. lol...

frankly id rather up the wattage on heater of the anodized plate if heat up time its a big issue and i wanted to keep the current setup. keeno makes silicone pads 200x200 24v up to like 500w ... doing a rough current measurement (using an inductive dc current meter) i am assuming the one on the 24v plate now is 200w id go for a 300w which would be about 12.5a - well within the specs of the smoothie-board i am running... little tight for the Rambo board which is fused at 15A but doable.

[jimc]

Its all unnecessary. The mic6 just sitting on the bed heater heats up fantactic and quick. It has no trouble holding 110c with extra power to spare.

[innkeeper]

My mic6 plate arrived today, it needs the edges milled or filed... I might get lazy and just run a file along the edges instead of milling it.