Different Versions of Extruders

[Alloy]

I am fairly new to 3D printing and the M2 community. I hear a lot of talk about different/older/newer extruders but have not found a place explaining them. Just from poking around, I learned that my M2 came with the V3B extruder. Is there a list (with pictures?) of the other extruders that are out there? Makers with multiple extruders, do they have pros/cons that you switch them out based on what material and model are being printed? What improvements are come to future versions?

[Jules]

There are a couple of other nozzles available, the E3d (not a MakerGear model, and you have to modify the filament drive) and the V4 (MakerGear, and you have to modify the filament drive). Those will go up to, and maintain, a higher temp than the V3B, which has a recommended max running temp of about 250°C or so, although you can go a bit higher for short periods. The V3B can handle PLA, PETG and ABS easily, along with any other filaments that print in that temperature range.

The main reason that i think most people switch to the V4, (and it's a one way trip, you will be making modifications to your Z-switch), is because they want to print filaments at higher temps - like nylon and polycarbonate. There are some hybrid filaments that can be printed with the V3b like Taulman Bridge, which is a nylon hybrid, and has a lot of the properties of nylon, but prints at the ABS temp range.

The other reason some folks switch to the V4 is that is easier to switch out the nozzle if you clog it, or want to switch to a 0.25 or 0.50 mm nozzle for printing. Just due to the design. But there are also some quirks to using the V4 design that are not present with the V3B - for example, it's possible to unseat the nozzle if you extrude too much, too fast - particularly on thick PETG. It requires relearning the rules.

I think those are the main reasons people make the V4 modification - it's a pretty good idea to wait for a while after getting familiar with your printer to see if you really want to do the switch. (You might decide that you have no interest in printing polycarbonate, for instance.) It all just depends on what you plan to do with your prints.

[Tim]

Jules covers it pretty well.

I would just add to that: Some people may mention the original V3 (I guess you could call it the "V3A") which has not been shipping on new M2s for several years now. That had a molded ceramic heater that looks very much DIY and old-fashioned next to the newer aluminum block + cartridge heater. It worked all right (never had a problem with mine), but due to the placement of the thermistor in the heat core, reported temperatures 20 degrees C higher than the later/newer designs. People who still have these extruders are certainly now in the minority; they know who they are and dial down the temperature accordingly.

Also, the only known dual extruder option, for those of us beta testing it, is designed specifically for the V4 extruder.

The ease of removing and replacing the V4 is in itself a great reason to get one. Polycarb aside, some people like to have different nozzles at different diameters (0.25mm for extreme detail; 0.5mm for fast printing), and some like to have different nozzles for different plastics, which helps prevent buildup of residue that can cause jams, especially if you don't use cleaning filament between filament changes. The V4 literally takes a few seconds to remove. Loosen set screw, pull out, unplug.

[CCVirginia]

While I have not needed to yet, the time may come when I want to clean or change the V4 nozzle. Question is, how?

The nozzle its self fits a 12mm wrench, but I don't see anything on the other side that would fit a wrench and would not want to break anything. The other side is all covered in the heater.
Also, I assume this would have to be done "hot" else solid plastic on the inside would hold it tight, true? So this would make it even more important to have something to hold onto.
Also, Is there any trick to not getting hot plastic in places it should not go when it is removed?

So, nozzle changing instructions anyone?

[Jules]

Not worried, I'm sure they'll post some instructions when they release it from beta.

You would just retract the filament first to get the plastic out of the way, and if it's stuck, it's a lot easier to reach in and cut it on the V4 design. Let it cool, take the hotend out, and then I imagine that an 11mm wrench and a padded vise of some sort will be required to remove the nozzle. I checked mine and it is some kind of tight!. (Must have some junior Samsons assembling these things!) ROFL!

This is what the replacement hotend and nozzles look like when they are not on the machine - looks like you just screw the nozzle off of the barrel, being careful to not damage the heater block. (And i do know that you have to be very careful to not damage that long neck at the top - it bends very easily, so grab it by the block.)

V4 hotend.jpg (235.91 KiB) Viewed 13242 times

[Tim]

Remember that everything expands when hot, so the nozzle should, in fact, be removed and assembled (carefully!) while hot, preferably at the top of the range the hot-end can handle. If you tighten it while cold, it is likely to be loose when hot, and if it has been assembled hot, then you are going to find it extremely hard to move when cold. Give it a firm, but not over-tight, fit when you assemble it hot, and it should be good.

The trick is to get the hot end free of the rest of the machine and then heat it up while it's dangling in the air, and not have it run into anything it can melt (including you). Also, there's the complication that as soon as you clamp down on it with a pair of pliers, the pliers are going to be a giant heat sink, and it's going to get a lot cooler quickly.

[Jules]

Remember that everything expands when hot, so the nozzle should, in fact, be removed and assembled (carefully!) while hot, preferably at the top of the range the hot-end can handle. If you tighten it while cold, it is likely to be loose when hot, and if it has been assembled hot, then you are going to find it extremely hard to move when cold. Give it a firm, but not over-tight, fit when you assemble it hot, and it should be good.

The trick is to get the hot end free of the rest of the machine and then heat it up while it's dangling in the air, and not have it run into anything it can melt (including you). Also, there's the complication that as soon as you clamp down on it with a pair of pliers, the pliers are going to be a giant heat sink, and it's going to get a lot cooler quickly.

So they are not Supermen? (I wondered!)

[Tim]

So they are not Supermen? (I wondered!)

We'll know when Kai Parthy comes out with Kryptonite filament.

[hanktt]

This may be slightly off topic but are all new M2 being shipped with V4 hotends now?

[Jules]

This may be slightly off topic but are all new M2 being shipped with V4 hotends now?

Don't think so - pretty sure they're still V3B except for special order.