Print Settings for PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament

[scampa123]

Thanks Jim, I'll give it a try!!

So what is the best to work with? ABS is smooth, but doesn't want to stay put for larger prints...PETG (at least translucent) seems to get caught up...

What about ePC? You had told me about that, and I picked up a spool...Is it any better?

[jimc]

epc prints very easily like abs does. warp just slightly less than abs. petg does print great and very clean HOWEVER its less forgiving of settings that arent fine tuned. you will need to print with it a bit to get the feel for it. once its tuned petg prints fantastic. i rarely print in abs anymore. i changed to petg probably a year and a half ago.

[scampa123]

Wow Jim!

I've been trying to print this splash spool remix I did, and it's been giving me trouble due to PETG strings getting caught up...

I took your FFF file and made the adjustments you recommended and so far so good...take a look....I can't say if the entire part will come out successful, but so far so good!

Thanks, I'll take any FFFs you want to share!! Thanks again!!

[jimc]

no problem. the thing with petg is that it will not tolerate ANY over extrusion. as jules said its very sticky. when abs is overextruded a little the excess filament just squishes out to the sides. with petg because its so sticky, any extra over extruded plastic sticks and accumulates on the nozzle. stringing or fine hairs on petg made during travel moves is normal but can be almost eliminated by lowering the temp a little and making sure your not over extruding. the trick is getting petg to print at a temp that is low enough to eliminate the strings yes not so low that you have poor layer adhesion. this is usually a very fine line of about 5 deg.

[scampa123]

Yes in the bad prints I could see the strings cross areas and drag things around at times...The current print with your settings are still working! I may try to print my kids duck again and see if that comes out better as well with these settings..

I will say I'm amazed how much of a difference this made. How do you go about figuring this out? I noticed your settings are a bit different from the suggestion in this post from Jules, yet I'm sure Jules' sedating work as well....Is there a process you go through when figuring out the right settings? Has anyone posted a methodology for this?

Thanks!!

[jimc]

uhhhhhh well.....i guess its just from years of running an m2 and using s3d. i generally watch how something is printing then if i need to tweak the settings to fine tune i just know what to tweak and how much. it just boils down to experience i guess. countless hours of trial and error to figure it all out

to be honest i have never read this thread at all. when jules started this i had already been printing the esun petg for a long time so i already had my setting figured out. i am running an e3dv6 extruder and at that time the m2 only had a v3b so my setting would never work for other users. the v4 however uses setting very close to the e3d.

[scampa123]

Both the spool attachment and another duck printed...both came out great!!

Hopefully it will work just as well for the black PETG!

Thanks again, I recommend your FFF file to anyone trying PETG!

[scampa123]

btw I just noticed that I had left the nozzle diameter to .40 (instead of .35 for the v4) and like I said, the prints came out great...I may try setting to .35 and see what happens...trial and error, right??

Also is there something in the profile that makes the print start before everything is heated up? I'm noticing when I send my print to the printer (via Octoprint) it immediately starts, rather than waiting for everything to fully heatup...So I was wondering if that is a setting..I hadn't noticed that behavior before...

Thanks,

-Sal

[scampa123]

Here are the ducks printed in PETG...

The left duck is printed with JimC's FFF file with the nozzle set to .35, the right is .40...My nozzle is .35 (v4)...

I do notice the right one has a bit more of a irridescent look to it....I'm not sure if that's good or bad...

I think I like the .40 setting, though I'm not sure if that will ultimately mess something up...

I sent JimC a note on this,but thought the forum may like to see it as well and chime in...

Thanks!!

[jsc]

The extrusion width can be anything from the actual nozzle exit diameter up to the width of the flat of the nozzle. So, from .35 to ~.50mm. In practice, it is best to avoid either extreme because you will get some spread so it is difficult to get exactly .35mm widths and it's difficult to know what the actual max extrusion width is. 0.4mm is a good choice because it is a) bigger than .35 and less than .50, and b) as a round number it is easy to design thin features to fit an integral number of perimeters.

From http://softsolder.com/2015/11/12/3d-pri ... alization/: