Thanks Will... Great advice. I found a calibration cube on Thingaverse and plan on using that until I dial in my settings. My shipment from MakerGear will arrive on Wednesday. I'll update the group and let everyone know how things turn out.willnewton wrote:Nice of you to make those edits. You aren’t the first person to get a bit overheated when the printer first arrives and things aren’t going quite as planned. Many folks have to adjust their expectations a bit, as there is little in common with 2D printing.
Your patience will hopefully be rewarded soon. The first weeks involve a fair bit of learning, but you will get the hang of it and if not, MG and the forum folks will help you get it worked out.
Start with simple stuff and learn to lay down that first layer at the proper “not too tight or loose” height setting. 20x20x10mm rectangle is boring, but you will be surprised how much you will learn as you tweak infill and perimeter settings. Just print half of it and stop the print. Change settings. Print half. Rinse and repeat.
Don’t obsess over printing directly on the glass, a roll of 3” wide blue tape will give you the “stick” you need so you can focus on other details rather than bed adhesion and it will be easy to change for your students. Later, you can try other surfaces.
Just focus on PLA filament for now.
If things are progressing normally, soon you will be dealing with your first clog. Ah, that brings back memories!
The place to discuss the M3-SE
The blue tape idea is great for classroom use or demos at your local library, kids museum, etc. I've done many and not needing a heated bed removes the odd problem and saves time. Remember to rub down the tape with isopropyl.