E3D V6

[jdacal]

Thanks Jim. Yeah the bumps seemed to be located in some areas where the supports were located, but the support came off easy for the most part. Nozzle looks pretty awesome at a normal distance, very nice design, thanks again.

Printing the drive right now followed by the cover with the M2 logo and one of your fancy fan covers for the drive fan.

[jdacal]

After reading this entire thread I'm a little confused about the 12 volt heater that comes with the E3D V6 and my 24 volt M2. Does the 12 volt heater work ok with the 24 volts after making the firmware changes mentioned on the E3D site? Or are you guys using a 24 volt heater? The heater from my stock extruder won't fit the E3D.

Also posted some pictures of my print of Jim's design on Thingiverse:

http://www.thingiverse.com/make:92525

[Tim]

I recall seeing somewhere in the E3Dv6 documentation that the 12V heater has been run in the range of 12V up to 24V without any problem. Apparently that little heater has a pretty high voltage tolerance. I haven't tried looking up a datasheet to see what the actual specs are. You can purchase a 24V heater from E3D, though, from their spare parts page. It's pretty cheap, and E3D doesn't charge ridiculous rates for shipping, either. They just stuff it in an envelope and send it by Royal Mail.

[jdacal]

Oh great, thanks Tim, I'll order them tonight. Wish they'd give the option when the order is placed. Also thanks for that list if connectors earlier in the thread. Saved me a bunch of time. Like you said if you don't order them all the time it can be a hassle figuring it out.

[Lateralg]

Prior to ordering my 24V from Filastruder I sent them an Email asking how to specify 24 V. I got an Email from "Tim" at filastruder@gmail.com instructing me to Email order # to him. He would then flag my order & specify 24V.

I did. He replied with the following:

"Got it!

12v and 24v heaters look the same, please test the resistance upon arrival just as a double check - I test the resistance before shipment to be sure I have the right one, but better to be safe than sorry. 12v heaters are around 3 ohms, 24v heaters are 11-14 ohms. This is good practice as someone that owns a 24v printer, as most are 12v."

Tim

That was September 3. No word yet on shipping.

[jdacal]

Thanks for the ohms lateralg, I had been wondering about that myself. They are currently showing out of stock on the web site.

I managed to find them on eBay. Most shipped from China but found one auction that was from California. Cost more than China but I'll get it quicker. Seems to be a pretty standard heater as they are all the same dimensions.

[Lateralg]

Timing update message from Tim

"I've just heard from E3D that the 24v parts finally shipped out - these were ordered by me weeks ago!

I expect them Wednesday, and your order will go out the same day. Tracking will be sent once it ships.

Tim

[Lateralg]

As promised, my order was shipped today.

[jdacal]

Thanks for the ohms lateralg, I had been wondering about that myself. They are currently showing out of stock on the web site.

I managed to find them on eBay. Most shipped from China but found one auction that was from California. Cost more than China but I'll get it quicker. Seems to be a pretty standard heater as they are all the same dimensions.

I received my order from the eBay vendor today. They read about 15 ohms on my outdated meter, probably about 20 years old. Diameter is the same, the length is slightly shorter than the 12 volt stock version. Don't have a 24 volt version to compare it to. But otherwise the construction looks exactly like the stock version including the length of the wires and type of insulation. Cost me about $5 dollars each.

[MMcKenzie]

I have a MakerGear M2 that came with the V3b hotend. You guys are right, that one is pretty messy with PET+... But, I now have a E3Dv6 hotend wired with, (wait for it) a thermocouple tied into the Makergear mobo. I used an external thermocouple board from e3d and one of their welded thermocouples. With a header I ordered from Pololu, I wired the thermocouple board in, did a quick FIRMWARE adjustment to use the AUX input on the MOBO instead of the hotend connector. and I am printing away! My boss had me try to print with some "HOT" materials and ill say this, the hotend goes HOT, I think I attempted one of my prints with a 450C temp, and a 100C bed temp. but obviously without an enclosure, it doesn't stick very well to the bed...Printing PET+ with pretty good success. still learning tho, and I almost have the BLOBBING ON THE NOZZLE cleared up...