Post your advice, tips, suggestions, etc...
Anyone have some good PETG (esun) settings? Exteriors are printing beautifully, and I have the bed adhesion (100C, good leveling and first layer height) and stringing under control (245-250, with fan after first layer). But infill at 20% is a mess. Looks like the filaments don't like to attach to the lower layer, or sometimes even the perimeter, and will stick up out of the plane of the current layer. This eventually creates a blob on the extruder that gets deposited elsewhere in the print (I haven't had it build up to catastrophic failure, it mostly cleans itself off). Anyone else seeing this?
I've basically decided that PETg has to be printed at 80% infill or so, or else the infill will need to be printed sparsely so that it's more like a patterned structure than just a cross-hatch. Otherwise, even when it's not globbing up on the nozzle, the infill still looks like a big mess.
if its globbing on the nozzle heavily then that is a sign something is not right. unless its printing perfectly and everything is set right on the money it will leave little hairs that stick up then collect on the nozzle slowly building up into that big clump. i printed something last night as a matter of fact with the red esun at 20% infill. when it was dont the nozzle was as clean as with pla. the first layer is a real kicker. if that one is not dead on then it will screw things up on the 10 layers above it and really collect on the tip. jin as for the infill, i do know exactly what you mean. its all broken with holes, etc. turn your infill width up to 150%. it wont actually make the infill width wider but it puts out more material so all the layers are fused with ones below. ext temp i am at 245. another thing i found important was filament dia and multiplier need to be right on. if there is any over extrusion at all it will make hairs, collect and cause a blob. because its translucent its not the easiest thing to be able to tell. for my spools anyway i am running my dia at 1.71 and multiplier at 96. print speed is at 4200 as well. no coasting, only retraction at 2mm but that may vary with your guys extruders. its all taken some testing and tweaking but i finally have it to where its printing right. just as good as pla or abs.
Mind sharing your settings (as in the .fff file)? They sound very non-intuitive. I'm glad that you are able to get PETg to print so well. I was beginning to think it wasn't possible. Do any of those settings transfer to PET+ (I still have some spools of the opaque filament from MadeSolid; always had problems with globbing on the nozzle with that filament, too)?i finally have it to where its printing right. just as good as pla or abs
sure tim i dont mind sharing my fff for the stuff. i was just giving you the more important setting in the previous thread because i am running the e3dv6 so some if it might be different for you. here they are anyway. i did another print overnight last night with white pet+. i popped it off the bed this morning. i just looked at my nozzle and there isnt anything on it at all. that was 20 or 25% infill. i dont remember exactly. there are fff settings there for pet+ opaque, translucent and esun. just remember to change you nozzle dia and start script since i am still on a 12/19v machine and dia and multiplier will vary for your spool.
I measured my filament, and it was consistently 1.70mm. Fixing that, and increasing infill width to 150% has made a vast improvement. I am now getting a raised bump at the start of layer (any suggestions?) but I can live with that.
yeah jin that about what my filament is measuring also. i actually ended up changing my infill width up from 150 to 200 on both my petg and abs profiles. it really makes for nice solid infill. the higher you go with that the more it seems you need to increase your outline overlap. at 200 i jumped my overlap up to 40% to make the infill contact my perimeter walls. ok as for the raised bump, is this only at a layer change or are we talking about the normal blob at the beginning of a line?
yes you can bond it with the weld-on 4. for the corner builup after the jump try adding a little neg restart distance -.05 and also maybe just bump the coasting up just one notch. see if that improves. if it does just go from there. you know the deal though, keep those #'s as small as possible or you can run into problems with poorly printed fine details. if you dont have the wipe feature on then that will help a little too. 5mm is good for that.