.25 Stainless nozzle?

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GlennK
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Re: .25 Stainless nozzle?

Post by GlennK » Wed Mar 06, 2019 2:11 pm

airscapes, could you give any advice how to use cleaning filament properly?

airscapes
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Re: .25 Stainless nozzle?

Post by airscapes » Thu Mar 07, 2019 2:36 am

GlennK wrote:
Wed Mar 06, 2019 2:11 pm
airscapes, could you give any advice how to use cleaning filament properly?
I use the eSun cleaning filament. If you are changing materials you set temp to the same temp as what you are removing and run about 8" of cleaning filament through the nozzle. I run it slow so the stuff you are removing has time to mix with the cleaning filament. Once it is extruding clear (cleaner is clear color) you change your temp to that of your new filament, remove the cleaning filament (I cut about 2' lengths at a time) and run considerably more of the new stuff to remove ALL of the cleaning filament. Extrude it slow about and inch at a time. Set the manual extrusion rate to 5 or 10mmS If I recall. Not home to check atm. The cleaning stuff will make your new filament delaminate if it is not completely gone from the hot end (only bad part about it) To help reduce the amount of new stuff you waste, let the nozzle sit for a minute after you "think" you are good to go, then extrude another foot or 2 (not filament but extrusion from the nozzle). Print a test square to make sure it does not delaminate before proceeding to your next print. Another item I use to keep the nozzle from clogging is a brass brush. When up to temp scrub the nozzle like you are shining a shoe, I even will extrude some plastic while doing this. I have not had to remove a nozzle since starting this practice. I have 3 hot ends one for the .25 .35 and .5 nozzles and just switch hot ends. Before I switch a hot end, I run the cleaner, back it out, brush the nozzle and wipe with paper towel. That way no matter what I use next, I am ready to set starting height (clean nozzle end) and then once flushed it is clean and ready to go. The cleaner has a huge temp range, the only thing that is hard to do is flush it with nijaflex .. but nothing about TPU is easy on an M2.

Also I use the brush between prints, especially PETG. Also will run cleaner if using PLA for a long time and flow seems to be reduced..

This is the brush I use
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tire-Repair-Br ... Sw6aVUmkMg
Last edited by airscapes on Thu Mar 07, 2019 2:46 am, edited 2 times in total.

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ednisley
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Re: .25 Stainless nozzle?

Post by ednisley » Thu Mar 07, 2019 2:38 am

jfstanley wrote:
Mon Mar 04, 2019 4:06 pm
listen pal
Pekish is Italian and writes English as a second (or third or fourth, for all I know) language, so what seems abrupt isn't due to arrogance.

In point of fact, he's designed and printed some spectacular large-scale + fine-detail architectural models and speaks from considerable experience:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5669&p=33341#p33341

Take a deep breath, step back, and assume good intent …

GlennK
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Re: .25 Stainless nozzle?

Post by GlennK » Fri Mar 08, 2019 10:26 am

@airscapes thanks for the reply, really helpful mate

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Pekish79
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Re: .25 Stainless nozzle?

Post by Pekish79 » Mon Mar 11, 2019 9:22 pm

I apologize for my English I just assure you that 0.25 is not a good nozzle if you need to go that small maybe you need to get a DLP machine
(they have a very small print area, but if you feel the need to go 0.25 probably you are printing very small objects!)

This is my latest model, and all floor are interlocking as you can see in the zoom of the roof for instance. There is a negative cut so it will sit on the wall perfectly without moving and without glue so people can open the model and see inside (and each floor does the same!)

building printed with nozzle 0.5 and windows/doors nozzle 0.35 (i own a nozzle 0.25 when they were still selling them because I thought it would be cool to print tiny details I used it once then went back to 0.35)

at the same time, I printed a car scale 1/64 (same scale of the model) with detail 0.05, yep 0.05, not 0.5!! with the DLP printer (DLP printer are super cheap!)

you just need to understand the limits of your machine and which machine is good for what.
Obviously, I could print the car with my M2-FDM, and I could use a 0.25, but I would still not have the right result and most probably a lot of problems

Other things that are better to print in DLP are for instance tree, persons and stairs... But I would never print the building in DLP is a waste of money resin cost more and it doesn't look as nice either as you have to divide it into million of parts and they are much more easy to deform

I hope this is more clear and less aggressive, I was only trying to help in my aggressive way ^_^
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jfstanley
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Re: .25 Stainless nozzle?

Post by jfstanley » Tue Mar 12, 2019 7:40 pm

It's fine, although I understood your concepts from the beginning and as Airscapes mentioned, if I maintain the nozzles well and make sure things are cleaned out before changing filaments, I usually don't have clogging problems. I need the fine lines for my work, and I can't get the detail with .35.

Those are very nice architectural models. I don't have the resources or ventilation to get a DLP right now, but I would love one.

cheers,
Jim

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Pekish79
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Re: .25 Stainless nozzle?

Post by Pekish79 » Tue Mar 12, 2019 7:48 pm

I wouldn't sleep next to mine but unless you are allergic or very sensitive some of the new and slightly more expensive resin are odorless (almost)

the price of a machine is between 400$-500$ it's not cheap but absolutely affordable

Added the second car and some detail I think printing a mix of the 2 technology is the best way I am in a site of DLP and I hate how they talk badly of FDM people is just weird

I am sure if you put a lot of work in trying to keep the 0.25 clean you can do it but you see it's not something for the public there is a lot of extra work and attention that you need to put in making it work this is why they don't mass produce it or even advertise it because they would have a lot of people that are not willing to put the extra time/work that will complain because they sell something so NOT user friendly
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jfstanley
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Re: .25 Stainless nozzle?

Post by jfstanley » Wed Mar 13, 2019 2:29 pm

Yes, $400-500 isn't bad at all.

I'm curious - how long does it take to print one of those cars with your DLP? I also do human head models, around 75mm x 100mm, and I could obviously get much better detail with a DLP.

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Pekish79
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Re: .25 Stainless nozzle?

Post by Pekish79 » Wed Mar 13, 2019 5:44 pm

it's funny as DLP is so different then FDM so what matter is how "tall" the object is not how large so u can print 4 car in the same time as 1 if they are next to each other

but you have to print it with a slight angle I would say 4 hours at 0.05 and 10 hours at 0.02 (i tried to print at 0.02 and make really not much difference so I went back to print all at 0.05 or 0.04 if there is really some tiny detail 0.03 but so far I stick to 0.05 90% of the time)

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3489386
(this is the model of the house I just posted I uploaded it on thingiverse)

But remember of that house I only printed car and stair and tree on DLP all the rest that is very geometric even door and windows FDM is better because:

a) cheaper
b) faster (is not always faster but certain geometric shape FDM is faster)
c) stronger/precision of interlocking (the dlp have amazing detail but subject to bending and deforming so if it's a stand-alone piece great (car/tree) but windows that need to enter perfectly in the slot... not so much)

There are pro and cons on both you just need to use the right instrument for the right purpose
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jfstanley
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Re: .25 Stainless nozzle?

Post by jfstanley » Thu Mar 14, 2019 12:59 pm

thanks for the info.

my background is rendering (mostly) indoor and some outdoor architectural scenes with max and v-ray and I actually tried to market doing models for local developers or/or real estate people, but didn't get anywhere yet. but your models look excellent and very precise. I see the exterior ground looks like wood too, good choice. The geometric trees work well too. Have you tried a clear filament like t-glase for plate glass windows? that might work well

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